A hiking novice's guide to the Inca Trail
by The Adventure People on 5th February 2019
Would you like to write for our blog? Please send an email to hello@theadventurepeople.com we'd love to hear your ideas!
Sitting at the top of what is affectionately known as “Dead Woman’s Pass”, I had an exhausted yet satisfied moment of calm. Looking back down on the steep and uneven cobbled valley that I’d just travelled through, I was hugely relieved and proud. This was the part I’d been most worried about - the section of the Inca Trail which is often considered the hardest - and though my legs were like jelly and the wind was bitingly cold, I had done it!
The first thing to note about me is that I'm not a hiker. Don't get me wrong - I love the great outdoors, going for a country ramble and breathing in fresh air, but my holidays growing up were far more tailored towards lazing on a sun lounger or escaping into a good book than getting up at 5am to reach the top of a mountain before breakfast.
However, as a lover of all things ancient, I'd always dreamt of seeing the mysterious Inca citadel of Machu Picchu, so in 2014 I decided to take on the challenge of the four-day hike across the Andes. Having never done anything like it before, I went into it with almost blissful ignorance and to be honest, it wasn’t until a couple of weeks before the hike that it fully hit me what I was about to embark on!
That said, almost five years on, the Inca Trail is still one of my proudest achievements and one of the most incredible thing I’ve ever done. Yes, it is very tough (definitely not to be underestimated!) and emotionally draining, but the views were magnificent and arriving at Machu Picchu to watch the sun rise on the final day was worth every ache, pain and tear.
As I mentioned though, it’s no walk in the park. So here are some tips that are useful for anyone thinking of doing the trek. Some are things I wish I’d known and others are just useful suggestions for making the most out of your trip of a lifetime - which, believe me, it really is!
It’s Not Just About Machu Picchu
Yes, ultimately this is a hike towards the coveted mysterious and beautiful archaeological city of Machu Picchu, but the great thing about doing the Inca Trail is how many amazing sights you see along the way. Re-discovered by Hiram Bigham in the early 20th century, the historic city of Machu Picchu is believed to have been built in the 1400s during the reign of Inca emperor Pachucuti. The trail itself is understood to have been a pilgrimage route along which the Incas would perform religious ceremonies and rituals to honour nature. As a result, the classic Inca Trail features many important and fascinating archaeological sites including the Inca ruins of Llachtapata, Runkurakay, Sayacmarca, Phuypatamarca and Wiñaywayna, which are all built into the mountain sides along the ancient road. Passing rivers, valleys, mountain ranges and forests, the landscape itself is also hugely varied and eclectic with plenty to see along the way. This is a classic example of the journey being just as important as the destination, so take in every moment!Coping With Altitude Sickness
From the moment you arrive in Peru you’ll likely to be made more aware of what altitude you’re currently standing at in a way you’d never even thought about before. Do you know how far above sea level you are at home or at work? No, but as soon as you get to Peru, you’ll realise that this is something that’s regularly considered. To put the altitude into context, whilst London is 14m above sea level, Cusco (where all Inca Trail treks depart from) stands at an impressive 3,400m. That’s a huge difference and one that most people’s bodies are not attuned to. As a result, most of us tend to experience some form of altitude sickness when we initially get to those lofty heights. The first thing you’re likely to notice is a shortness of breath as the air is much thinner with less oxygen which may consequently result in headaches, fatigue and/or nausea. However, the good news is that this is just your body’s way of learning to cope with it’s new surroundings and whilst it can be unpleasant, it’s usually temporary, tending only to last a couple of days. To cope best with the change in altitude, it’s recommended that you allow for at least 2 days in Cusco to acclimatise before starting the Inca Trail. It’s also advised to stay hydrated, get plenty of rest and take everything as slowly as you can. You’ll notice that alcohol goes to your head much quicker at high altitudes so pace yourself on that front too.The Toilet Situation
OK, let’s discuss with what is probably the worst aspect of the whole experience and just get it out of the way… There are toilets all the way along the route, but they can be fairly few and far between and I expect quite far removed from what you’re used to. The best way to describe them is as pits in the ground, surrounded by metal shelters. As flushing toilet paper is not allowed throughout Peru, bins are usually provided to dispose your paper into once used. However, on the Inca Trail, these bins are non-existent so used toilet paper is often just left around or next to the pits. With this in mind, make sure you’re always wearing your hiking boots when going to the toilet as you have no idea what you’ll be stepping in, and breathe in before you enter! You won’t be inclined to hang about in there for long. As toilet roll isn’t provided, make sure you bring plenty of your own and that it stays dry in your backpack. I’d also recommend taking hand sanitiser as there isn’t always somewhere to wash your hands, as well as a headlamp as - unstylish as it looks - there’s no lighting in the toilets, so the moment the sun starts to set, you’re suddenly in a whole lot of darkness. In general, we tended to try to go in pairs or groups as the toilets rarely have a lock, and moral support was always a blessing. You’ll be getting to know these folk on your tour better than you ever imagined!
The Porters Are Amazing
Now back onto some of the most positive aspects! One of the greatest things about the Inca Trail (after the stunning scenery and awe-inspiring historical sights, of course) is how well it’s organised. If you’ve booked to do the trek as part of an organised tour, the likelihood is that they will have arranged for the majority of your camping gear and belongings to be carried by local porters. These are absolutely incredible, superhuman men and women who run ahead (yes, they run the Inca Trail on a daily basis!) with all of your stuff strapped to their backs, and set up the camps so they’re all ready for you when you arrive hours later. As you can imagine, they’re an absolute God-send. The majority of your belongings can be left in Cusco, which can be arranged either with your tour provider or the accommodation you’ve been staying with. You’ll then be given a bag (usually about 6L) in which to put all of your overnight gear, including your tent, sleeping bag, toiletries etc. Any other equipment that you’ll need during the day can be put into the backpack that you carry. The porters also provide all of your food throughout the trek. Though your appetite is likely to be surprisingly low due to the altitude, there’ll be no shortage of hot food at breakfast, lunch and dinner which - considering you’re in the middle of a mountain range - is amazing.Going Down Is Often Harder Than Going Up
I realise as I wrote that heading that it sounds like the lead-in to a dirty joke, but whilst you get your mind out of the gutter, I’ll explain a bit better… I, like many others I’m sure, assumed that the toughest parts of the Inca Trail would be the steep hikes uphill. As the trek is across the mountains, it’s a regular mixture of both steep up and downward terrains and whilst the uphill hiking is hard too, don’t underestimate the strength and mental focus is takes to hike downhill. The route itself is mainly made up of paved stone on a mixture of flats, slopes and steps and on each of the first 3 days you’ll tend to cover between 12 - 16km. This takes most groups between 8 - 9 hours per day, with a lunch break included. Whilst going up has its own challenges, for me the repetitive motion of going downwards (particularly on the steps) played havoc with my knees as it’s not a motion I was used to on a day-to-day basis. With uneven terrain, cliff edges, valleys and varying weather conditions to contend with, it also takes a fair bit of mental energy to concentrate on where you’re placing your feet each time. Hiking poles are also available for hire and are very useful for those who feel they’d benefit for some support going both up and down.
It’s As Much To Do With Mental As Physical Strength
My final point here is basically that you can do it! It is tough and extremely hard work, but it’s as much to do with staying positive in the face of unpredictable weather, difficult terrain and challenging altitudes, as it is any levels of fitness. As I mentioned at the beginning, there were tears, but not due to physical pain as much as emotional exhaustion. But if you can power through that, keep your head up and continue putting one foot in front of the other, there is the most amazing reward at the end and you will have experienced something that very few are lucky enough to do. It’s a massive achievement and as I say, one I’m still incredibly proud of - so book that tour and seize the day! You won’t regret it! Katy Mason hiked the Inca Trail in 2014 and now runs travel blog, The Adventure Playlist - www.theadventureplaylist.com. Follow the blog on Instagram at @theadventureplaylist and on Facebook at www.facebook.com/theadventureplaylist.
